Sunday saw an early start, waking up at 5:30, packing up, downing a cup of coffee and a quick breakfast, filling up the water bottles and driving to the Cathedral Rocks pull-out. Racking up took a bit but we left the car at shortly after 7AM. The approach trail brought us to the base of the climb pretty quickly and we started up the first pitch around 8AM. Ben took the first lead which didn't pose any problems. I faced a slight problem in the roof starting of the second pitch, but I managed to figure it out in relatively short time. From here on we swung leads, moving at a pretty good pace. Besides the climbs the day before this was the first climb I really fully enjoyed and was comfortable on at all times. This showed especially on my lead of the 6th pitch, a traversing face pitch. There are two pitons on the pitch, and not too many other places that take protection. The move off the second piton is a 5.8 friction move, where I took a while to figure out how it should be done. But I managed it... I guess on another day I would have wanted to bail...But Sunday it felt really good... On the 8th pitch I got slightly off route, as I traversed to the belay ledge too late. There were plenty of cracks to build an anchor though. It was quite amazing to see a flock of pigeons fly by below me as I belayed Ben up. Another few pitches brought us to the top, which we reached at 1:52. Just about 6 hours after we left the ground. It's a pity that such a great climb ends in an ugly gully! Next time we'll definitely try the 5.10 finger crack variation on the left of the original route.
Another downside of the climb is the rather nasty descent along exposed cliffs and down a nasty gully. At 3:45 we were back at the car, sorting gear, packing up and starting the drive back to the Bay Area. A dinner at Taqueria Algave in Oakdale concluded an amazing weekend of climbing. It really feels as if I got my mojo back. Too bad that I have to go the New Mexico for work again next week, and that I can't make it out to the Valley more often!
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
R.I.P.
Unfortunately I have to report the untimely passing of my beloved camera...
Got to start looking for a new one. I guess the economy can use every dollar spent!
Got to start looking for a new one. I guess the economy can use every dollar spent!
Monday, September 29, 2008
Sweeeeet!
Despite the Rock'n'Roll 1/2 marathon coming up next weekend I ditched my long run this past weekend and went back to Yosemite Valley for the first time in almost half a year. And what a trip it was! Ben and I took an early Saturday morning start from the Bay Area and got to the Valley around 9AM. Our plan was to spend Saturday on short routes in the 5.10 range and do something long on Sunday. So it came that the first stop on the way was Highway Star, a 5.10a close to the road, just after the intersection of HW 120 and HW 140. The approach is about 3 minutes, and despite its 4-star rating in Supertopo there was no one around. I took a look at the route and decided that I'd give it a shot on lead...My first attempt to lead a 5.10 ever! The route starts up a flake, continues in a finger lieback section, before a hand traverse leads to a finger traverse to nice hand jams to the anchors. The crux section is the change from the hand traverse to the finger traverse, since the rock is bulging out slightly. I managed to lead to this point, but was completely pumped after placing a BD .75 cam at the beginning of the finger crack. I lowered off at this point. Lowering down I unclipped the rope and Ben lead the climb. After he lowered off, unclipping but leaving the gear in place I gave it another shot. With the pre-placed protection I made it to the top with a few hangs. After Ben TR'ed a 10b variation and lead the 10a route a second time I cleaned the anchor and we moved on to Schultz's Ridge. We had been looking for this crag on a previous trip and didn't manage to find it. This time around it also took us some bushwhacking for the better part of an hour before we finally found it... Although it's about 2 minutes from the road if one starts in at the right spot...
Here Ben lead 'Second Thoughts' (5.10a) which I cleaned. Since an other party (Meg and Laura) were on the other 10a in the area Ben looked at the 10c in between and decided to give it a shot. One short hang in the 10c crux section was all it took to get him to the anchor bolts. I cleaned the route hanging at the 10b section and also in the 10c crux.
After this we swapped routes with Meg and Laura, and I lead 'Warm Up Crack' (5.10a). I managed to do it clean... I guess tightly spaced bolts in the lower part really helped. The climb was also not as pumpy as 'Highway Star' in the morning or 'Peruvian Flake' in the Royal Arches area, which we climbed afterwards. But hey! It's a start.
As mentioned we finished off the day with 'Peruvian Flake' a 5.10a finger crack between Serenity Crack and Royal Arches. Again Ben lead this one and I cleaned. Between 10AM and 6PM we had gotten five different climbs in the 5.10 range in three areas in...not bad. After this days effort we met my parents at the Curry Village pizza deck for beer and pizza...There's nothing better after a day of climbing!
By 9PM we were in our sleeping bags in the North Pine campground with the alarm set to 5:30 in order to get an early start to climb the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock...
Here Ben lead 'Second Thoughts' (5.10a) which I cleaned. Since an other party (Meg and Laura) were on the other 10a in the area Ben looked at the 10c in between and decided to give it a shot. One short hang in the 10c crux section was all it took to get him to the anchor bolts. I cleaned the route hanging at the 10b section and also in the 10c crux.
After this we swapped routes with Meg and Laura, and I lead 'Warm Up Crack' (5.10a). I managed to do it clean... I guess tightly spaced bolts in the lower part really helped. The climb was also not as pumpy as 'Highway Star' in the morning or 'Peruvian Flake' in the Royal Arches area, which we climbed afterwards. But hey! It's a start.
As mentioned we finished off the day with 'Peruvian Flake' a 5.10a finger crack between Serenity Crack and Royal Arches. Again Ben lead this one and I cleaned. Between 10AM and 6PM we had gotten five different climbs in the 5.10 range in three areas in...not bad. After this days effort we met my parents at the Curry Village pizza deck for beer and pizza...There's nothing better after a day of climbing!
By 9PM we were in our sleeping bags in the North Pine campground with the alarm set to 5:30 in order to get an early start to climb the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock...
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Bouldering
Tonight I went bouldering at PG for an hour.
In an earlier post I mentioned that my power endurance is not the best at the moment. This was confirmed tonight. I played the "pick a number" game again. You pick a number and add the V-grades until the sum equals the chosen number... I picked 20... Not too bad... I thought. It seems though that the ratings on the bouldering problems in Belmont became harder. I was not able to finish a V3. So I ended up doing 4 V2 and 12 V1 problems. My arms were toast! I hope that repeating this for a few weeks will get me back on track soon.
In an earlier post I mentioned that my power endurance is not the best at the moment. This was confirmed tonight. I played the "pick a number" game again. You pick a number and add the V-grades until the sum equals the chosen number... I picked 20... Not too bad... I thought. It seems though that the ratings on the bouldering problems in Belmont became harder. I was not able to finish a V3. So I ended up doing 4 V2 and 12 V1 problems. My arms were toast! I hope that repeating this for a few weeks will get me back on track soon.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Long run
Ok, now that I caught up on Trip Reports, it is time to update trainings activities...
On Saturday I did a "long run" I think this was actually the first run that deserved that name. I ran 12 miles on the Stevens Creek Trail, through Shoreline Park in Mountain View and the Palo Alto Bayland Reserve.
It felt quite OK, although I had a hard time getting up and getting moving. But after a couple of miles I got into the groove... The time wasn't too bad either 1:42 gives me some hope for the Rock'n Roll Half Marathon in San Jose in a few weeks.
Yesterday I had planned on climbing at the new Planet Granite in San Francisco with a friend, but the person at the front desk claimed that they didn't do guest passes anymore... I am convinced that she just didn't know how to deal with it! Anyway...no climbing yesterday...
The plan for this week is to do some speed-work tomorrow, some yoga and bouldering on Wed. Another run on Thursday, a long run on Friday and go to Yosemite for the weekend.
HA! Just looked at the trainings plan! I am supposed to run 3 miles today...OK gotta go!
On Saturday I did a "long run" I think this was actually the first run that deserved that name. I ran 12 miles on the Stevens Creek Trail, through Shoreline Park in Mountain View and the Palo Alto Bayland Reserve.
It felt quite OK, although I had a hard time getting up and getting moving. But after a couple of miles I got into the groove... The time wasn't too bad either 1:42 gives me some hope for the Rock'n Roll Half Marathon in San Jose in a few weeks.
Yesterday I had planned on climbing at the new Planet Granite in San Francisco with a friend, but the person at the front desk claimed that they didn't do guest passes anymore... I am convinced that she just didn't know how to deal with it! Anyway...no climbing yesterday...
The plan for this week is to do some speed-work tomorrow, some yoga and bouldering on Wed. Another run on Thursday, a long run on Friday and go to Yosemite for the weekend.
HA! Just looked at the trainings plan! I am supposed to run 3 miles today...OK gotta go!
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Traveller's Buttress
Since I am catching up on Trip Reports here's the missing one form two weeks ago: Traveller's Buttress at Lover's Leap.
Friday night Ben and I couldn't decide what to do on Sunday. Either go to Stinson Beach for some bouldering, or go to Lover's Leap and climb some multi-pitch trad. Saturday night we decided on Lover's. So I pulled up in front of Ben's place at 6AM Sunday morning to start a pleasant drive up to Tahoe. There was hardly any traffic at all. We got there shortly after 9AM. The plan was to climb Surrealistic Pillar followed by Traveller's Buttress. Of course the only other party at the Leap had chosen Surrealistic Pillar too... Only they had gotten there 2 minutes before us. Instead of waiting for them we started on the Groove, where Ben lead the first pitch and I the second one.
From the top we went over to the base of Traveller's... The first pitch starts out with a little 'bouldery' problem, but is not too bad in the middle section. There's a part close to the top though, which features a deep, flaring crack...One can get decent handjams in, but they are way in the back of the crack. Following that section I tried to climb around the flare on the face and took a fall. Using the crack is definitely the way to go!
The second pitch is the tough part (at least physically). It features a 20 foot section of nasty off-width. I tried to lead that part, but had no chance to get actually into the crack, so I lowered off after placing some pieces of pro. Ben tried his luck and was more successful. He placed some pro pretty high, thrutched his way up a little further then moved out of the crack and used the finger crack, which is parallel to the OW on the left hand side. For me even following was HARD!
After reaching the anchors I set out to lead the third pitch. The start was pretty nice, although the strong wind was pretty nerve wrecking. That was even worse as soon as I reached the arrete, which I had to cross. If you look up 'exposure' in the dictionary you'll find a photo of that section. In combination with the wind I completly freaked and froze...Again I lowered off :-( By this time I was pretty unhappy with my leading skills, which are apparently non-exsitent...
Anyway, Ben finished pitch 3 as well, before I lead the final (easy) pitch to the summit. Both of us were at the top at 4:15PM. It took us another hour to get back to the car. Even the drive back was not bad compared to other weekend trips...I guess the gas prices show some effect on weekend trips.
I was back in Mountain View at 9PM.
Traveller's Buttress is definitely a Classic! It's a beautiful climb, with lot's of variety. Despite the painful off-width section both of us enjoyed the route. (We'd only find out about the bruises on our right shoulders a day later ;-))
Friday night Ben and I couldn't decide what to do on Sunday. Either go to Stinson Beach for some bouldering, or go to Lover's Leap and climb some multi-pitch trad. Saturday night we decided on Lover's. So I pulled up in front of Ben's place at 6AM Sunday morning to start a pleasant drive up to Tahoe. There was hardly any traffic at all. We got there shortly after 9AM. The plan was to climb Surrealistic Pillar followed by Traveller's Buttress. Of course the only other party at the Leap had chosen Surrealistic Pillar too... Only they had gotten there 2 minutes before us. Instead of waiting for them we started on the Groove, where Ben lead the first pitch and I the second one.
From the top we went over to the base of Traveller's... The first pitch starts out with a little 'bouldery' problem, but is not too bad in the middle section. There's a part close to the top though, which features a deep, flaring crack...One can get decent handjams in, but they are way in the back of the crack. Following that section I tried to climb around the flare on the face and took a fall. Using the crack is definitely the way to go!
The second pitch is the tough part (at least physically). It features a 20 foot section of nasty off-width. I tried to lead that part, but had no chance to get actually into the crack, so I lowered off after placing some pieces of pro. Ben tried his luck and was more successful. He placed some pro pretty high, thrutched his way up a little further then moved out of the crack and used the finger crack, which is parallel to the OW on the left hand side. For me even following was HARD!
After reaching the anchors I set out to lead the third pitch. The start was pretty nice, although the strong wind was pretty nerve wrecking. That was even worse as soon as I reached the arrete, which I had to cross. If you look up 'exposure' in the dictionary you'll find a photo of that section. In combination with the wind I completly freaked and froze...Again I lowered off :-( By this time I was pretty unhappy with my leading skills, which are apparently non-exsitent...
Anyway, Ben finished pitch 3 as well, before I lead the final (easy) pitch to the summit. Both of us were at the top at 4:15PM. It took us another hour to get back to the car. Even the drive back was not bad compared to other weekend trips...I guess the gas prices show some effect on weekend trips.
I was back in Mountain View at 9PM.
Traveller's Buttress is definitely a Classic! It's a beautiful climb, with lot's of variety. Despite the painful off-width section both of us enjoyed the route. (We'd only find out about the bruises on our right shoulders a day later ;-))
Regular Route on Fairview Dome, aka the North Face
I know this is majorly delayed, but here it finally is: The trip report of the Regular Route on Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows.
The morning after coming back from Carlsbad I got up at 4:30 (the time I usually got up in NM anyway), packed up my gear and drove over to Sam's place in Milpitas. From there we headed out to Yosemite around 5:30. It is always amazing how fast the drive out there is when there's no traffic. Including a gas stop and a coffee stop it took us just over 4 hours to the Cathedral trailhead, where we stashed our food in the bear boxes. On the way there we passed the pullout for Fairview and were amazed that there was only one car parked. Even by the time we got back it was just one car... It took us a bit to sort out the gear and rack up. After a walk of about 20 minutes we reached the base of the route and could jump right on. Sam started leading the first pitch and chose the left of the two parallel cracks. He did a solid job all the way through the crux about 2/3s up the pitch. He continued on and linked pitches 1 and 2 with my 70m rope. Following the crux I had a pretty hard time due to the slick rock. I can't imagine how that's supposed to work when the crack is wet, which is supposedly the case often. Sam also took the lead on the next pitch, the 5.8 finger crack. At the next belay I took over the lead, and from here on we swung leads to one pitch above Crescent Ledge. At this point I got off route, because I was following another party, to which we had caught up. Following, Sam took the right way while I belayed from above. Things went downhill from here on, at least for me: I suffered from a severe headache. I don't really know what was the reason. I definitely was well hydrated. The most likely reason must have been the lack of sleep and insufficient food. Anyway, Sam lead the rest of the route in three pitches with me following. Since the upper pitches are quite easy we pitched it out, but hardly placed any gear. We reached the summit at 6:30PM after 8 hours on the route. I took it pretty slow on the descent... so that we got back to the car around 7:30. Since my headache got better as soon as we were back at the base it might actually have been related to altitude, although I've never had problems at altitude before. At this point we decided to cut the trip short and drive back to the Bay Area the same evening. Unfortunately Taqueria Algave in Oakdale was closed by the time we got there, so we stopped at In&Out in Manteca for dinner.
I got back to my place around 1AM that night...
The morning after coming back from Carlsbad I got up at 4:30 (the time I usually got up in NM anyway), packed up my gear and drove over to Sam's place in Milpitas. From there we headed out to Yosemite around 5:30. It is always amazing how fast the drive out there is when there's no traffic. Including a gas stop and a coffee stop it took us just over 4 hours to the Cathedral trailhead, where we stashed our food in the bear boxes. On the way there we passed the pullout for Fairview and were amazed that there was only one car parked. Even by the time we got back it was just one car... It took us a bit to sort out the gear and rack up. After a walk of about 20 minutes we reached the base of the route and could jump right on. Sam started leading the first pitch and chose the left of the two parallel cracks. He did a solid job all the way through the crux about 2/3s up the pitch. He continued on and linked pitches 1 and 2 with my 70m rope. Following the crux I had a pretty hard time due to the slick rock. I can't imagine how that's supposed to work when the crack is wet, which is supposedly the case often. Sam also took the lead on the next pitch, the 5.8 finger crack. At the next belay I took over the lead, and from here on we swung leads to one pitch above Crescent Ledge. At this point I got off route, because I was following another party, to which we had caught up. Following, Sam took the right way while I belayed from above. Things went downhill from here on, at least for me: I suffered from a severe headache. I don't really know what was the reason. I definitely was well hydrated. The most likely reason must have been the lack of sleep and insufficient food. Anyway, Sam lead the rest of the route in three pitches with me following. Since the upper pitches are quite easy we pitched it out, but hardly placed any gear. We reached the summit at 6:30PM after 8 hours on the route. I took it pretty slow on the descent... so that we got back to the car around 7:30. Since my headache got better as soon as we were back at the base it might actually have been related to altitude, although I've never had problems at altitude before. At this point we decided to cut the trip short and drive back to the Bay Area the same evening. Unfortunately Taqueria Algave in Oakdale was closed by the time we got there, so we stopped at In&Out in Manteca for dinner.
I got back to my place around 1AM that night...
Friday, September 12, 2008
Moonlight Run
I just finished the Palo Alto Weekly Moonlight Run. It was my first 10km run, and the first of the planned races for this fall. It was quite exciting! Although my training went really well lately, I didn't have to big expectations, since my right glute was pretty tight since last night. A thorough warm-up took care of that though...No problems after about 1.4 miles of easy jogging and stretching...
The race started at 8:15PM under an almost full moon. It was amazing to have a race in the dark. I managed to get away from the crowds right in the beginning and settle to a good pace... Between mile 2 and 3 something weird happened: I was completely zoned out... I had a song in my head, and actually don't have any recollection of how I ran that section... At mile 5 I decided that no one would pass me anymore until the finish line... It worked :-) It was a hard 2km, but hey, who said it should be easy. It's pretty much as Dean Karnazes said in his presentation last night: "We can do more than we think we can." Anyway, I finished in (approx. taken with my Garmin) 47:33, a 7:27 pace. Definitely the fastest run of that duration I ever did. And also a PR (well it was my first 10k :-)).
Splits:
mile 1 - 7:36
mile 2 - 7:33 15:09
mile 3 - 7:26 22:35
mile 4 - 7:40 30:14
mile 5 - 7:36 37:50
mile 6 - 7:08 44:57
finish - 47:33
Update:
Official result: 47:29 22/149 AgeGroup 99/479 Gender 114/920 Overall
The race started at 8:15PM under an almost full moon. It was amazing to have a race in the dark. I managed to get away from the crowds right in the beginning and settle to a good pace... Between mile 2 and 3 something weird happened: I was completely zoned out... I had a song in my head, and actually don't have any recollection of how I ran that section... At mile 5 I decided that no one would pass me anymore until the finish line... It worked :-) It was a hard 2km, but hey, who said it should be easy. It's pretty much as Dean Karnazes said in his presentation last night: "We can do more than we think we can." Anyway, I finished in (approx. taken with my Garmin) 47:33, a 7:27 pace. Definitely the fastest run of that duration I ever did. And also a PR (well it was my first 10k :-)).
Splits:
mile 1 - 7:36
mile 2 - 7:33 15:09
mile 3 - 7:26 22:35
mile 4 - 7:40 30:14
mile 5 - 7:36 37:50
mile 6 - 7:08 44:57
finish - 47:33
Update:
Official result: 47:29 22/149 AgeGroup 99/479 Gender 114/920 Overall
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Some thoughts on goals and training
I have thought about some long term goals. They include:
I've been following a trainings plan from RunnersWorld.com, and it seems to work well for me. I'll know more in a few days, after having raced in the Palo Alto Moonlight run. I intend to stick with this plan/plans for the upcoming half and full marathons as well.
However, I came across crossfitendurance.com, and it seems very interesting, since the actual volume of the workouts seems to be smaller and less time consuming. Additionally, the regular crossfit workouts, which are incorporated in their program seem to be beneficial to my climbing plans too. Furthermore, looking at a 50miler trainings plan on RunnersWorld.com, their emphasis on strength training increases as well. So it might be worth a shot...
I've also toyed with the idea of joining a local Triathlon Team. Seems like a fun thing to do.
- A triathlon (hopefully an Ironman)
- An ultra-marathon (50 or 100 miles)
- more alpine routes
- climb as many of the 50 classics as possible
- climb all California 14ers
- climb a few Bigwalls
I've been following a trainings plan from RunnersWorld.com, and it seems to work well for me. I'll know more in a few days, after having raced in the Palo Alto Moonlight run. I intend to stick with this plan/plans for the upcoming half and full marathons as well.
However, I came across crossfitendurance.com, and it seems very interesting, since the actual volume of the workouts seems to be smaller and less time consuming. Additionally, the regular crossfit workouts, which are incorporated in their program seem to be beneficial to my climbing plans too. Furthermore, looking at a 50miler trainings plan on RunnersWorld.com, their emphasis on strength training increases as well. So it might be worth a shot...
I've also toyed with the idea of joining a local Triathlon Team. Seems like a fun thing to do.
Sunday, September 7, 2008
What a weekend!
This weekend was simply fantastic!
I started Saturaday morning with a 10 mile run through Shoreline Park and the Palo Alto Baylands. Besides the two half marathons I ran, and the Diablo 25, this was the longest run I ever did...and it felt good! Really good! I was right on the rx'ed pace, actually two seconds faster and could have kept going... So the running training is going well...
After getting back home I had a huge omlette with mushrooms for breakfast (ok, I had a banana before I left for the run), and took a nap while watching college football. Around 1:15 I drove over to Sue's place and we went to Lindamar Beach in Pacifica surfing. Again: Simply fantastic, I can only compare it to the most perfect day out there, which was Oct. 29. 2005 :-). But yesterday was close...really calm sea, and occaisional perfect (for my limited skills at least) waves. It was rally peaceful and relaxing. On the way back we stopped at 'Flying Fish' in Half Moon Bay for fish tacos...
Today Ben and I headed up to Lover's Leap, where we climbed 'The Grove' and 'Traveller's Buttress'. Details on that will follow. Here only so much: It was another beautiful day!
The next week will be a little calmer... No plans for tomorrow, a tempo run on Tuesday, perhaps some climbing on Wednesday, a talk by Dean K (the Ultra-Marathon Man) in San Carlos on Thursday, and the Palo Alto Moonlight 10K on Friday... Sounds pretty busy too, but there is not too much exercise in there... Also no plans for the next weekend yet... we'll see what that brings (besides another long run (12 miles)).
I started Saturaday morning with a 10 mile run through Shoreline Park and the Palo Alto Baylands. Besides the two half marathons I ran, and the Diablo 25, this was the longest run I ever did...and it felt good! Really good! I was right on the rx'ed pace, actually two seconds faster and could have kept going... So the running training is going well...
After getting back home I had a huge omlette with mushrooms for breakfast (ok, I had a banana before I left for the run), and took a nap while watching college football. Around 1:15 I drove over to Sue's place and we went to Lindamar Beach in Pacifica surfing. Again: Simply fantastic, I can only compare it to the most perfect day out there, which was Oct. 29. 2005 :-). But yesterday was close...really calm sea, and occaisional perfect (for my limited skills at least) waves. It was rally peaceful and relaxing. On the way back we stopped at 'Flying Fish' in Half Moon Bay for fish tacos...
Today Ben and I headed up to Lover's Leap, where we climbed 'The Grove' and 'Traveller's Buttress'. Details on that will follow. Here only so much: It was another beautiful day!
The next week will be a little calmer... No plans for tomorrow, a tempo run on Tuesday, perhaps some climbing on Wednesday, a talk by Dean K (the Ultra-Marathon Man) in San Carlos on Thursday, and the Palo Alto Moonlight 10K on Friday... Sounds pretty busy too, but there is not too much exercise in there... Also no plans for the next weekend yet... we'll see what that brings (besides another long run (12 miles)).
Friday, September 5, 2008
Ouch!
I had a pretty good workout at Planet Granite tonight. I met Ben there, and we both had the same idea, since we both had brought our ropes. I started out leading two 5.9s and a 10a. After these three climbs my arms felt as if I had done 8 climbs already. This also showed on the 10b I tried to lead afterwards. Also the 11a I toproped following that was pretty pathetic. But it was a good workout never the less.
No that I am writing this my forearms are pretty sore... I hope this passes by Sunday, when we'll head either to Stinson Beach for some bouldering, or to Lover's Leap...
No that I am writing this my forearms are pretty sore... I hope this passes by Sunday, when we'll head either to Stinson Beach for some bouldering, or to Lover's Leap...
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Planet Granite
I had a good evening of gym climbing tonight. I met Dan at PG in Belmont, because we wanted to keep the option of joining Ben's yoga class, but decided to stick to climbing for the evening.
My fingers were still slightly tender from the weekend's face and finger crack climbs, and I was pretty tired since I hadn't slept the night before...
Despite all that I got seven climbs in mostly 11a's and b's.
Ok, off to sleep now...
My fingers were still slightly tender from the weekend's face and finger crack climbs, and I was pretty tired since I hadn't slept the night before...
Despite all that I got seven climbs in mostly 11a's and b's.
Ok, off to sleep now...
Tuolumne Meadows
Last weekend Ben and I went up to Tuolumne again. The trip started Sunday morning at 5:30AM, when Ben picked me up. Traffic was not bad at all, and we got to Tuolumne about 9:45. After dropping off our food at the bear boxes on the South side of Tenaya Lake, we continued on to Mettlicot Dome. A 20 minute approach on trails and climbers trails brought us to the base of Shagadellic. Since I had led the first pitch already while climbing "Piss Easier" last year, Ben started leading the first pitch. Following him I managed to clean a stuck cam and scored a .75 BD cam. I took the lead on the second pitch. It took me quite a while, and Ben got quite cold. The wind on Sunday was pretty strong and cold. The third pitch was Ben's lead again. Instead of topping out after the fourth pitch we rappelled back to the base and headed over to Daff Dome to check out the approach to West Crack. Since we were already there, we climbed "Witch of the West" I started leading, but at some point couldn't find the next bolt anymore. The wind was a problem too, and made it hard to find balance sometimes. I bailed of the third bolt. Ben led the whole climb nicely and lowered down.
From the base of West Crack we walked over to the Western Front, where we TRed a 5.9 and a 5.10a (me) and 5.10b (Ben).
After this it was time to check out the campground, where we met Lesley and Daniela, who had invited us to stay with them. After shortly checking in with them we drove down to the Mobil for dinner. The evening ended with a bottle of red wine at the campfire...
Sunday we started on West Crack, where Ben led the first two pitches and the fourth. Following the second pitch scared the living day lights out of me: It took me quite a while to figure out the chimney part at the start of the second pitch. It was hard to squeeze my 6'3" in there. The rest of the pitch was not bad at all. It was funny to find a nest of critters behind the flake at the start of the wide crack. What do they eat up there?
The third pitch was a nice lead, fingers to hands well protected. It definitely helped to regain my confidence in my leading abilities.
The last two pitches were a nice cruise. After rappelling down, and walking back to the car, we decided to have a look at "Little Sheeba" on Drug Dome. At this point a streak ended: It was the first climb in Tuolumne I had to wait for in Tuolumne this year. Ben led the one pitch 10a finger crack, which I TRed afterwards.
After 12 great pitches on the weekend we got back in the car around 4:30 on Monday and headed back to the Bay Area, of course stopping at the Taqueria Algave in Oakdale.
From the base of West Crack we walked over to the Western Front, where we TRed a 5.9 and a 5.10a (me) and 5.10b (Ben).
After this it was time to check out the campground, where we met Lesley and Daniela, who had invited us to stay with them. After shortly checking in with them we drove down to the Mobil for dinner. The evening ended with a bottle of red wine at the campfire...
Sunday we started on West Crack, where Ben led the first two pitches and the fourth. Following the second pitch scared the living day lights out of me: It took me quite a while to figure out the chimney part at the start of the second pitch. It was hard to squeeze my 6'3" in there. The rest of the pitch was not bad at all. It was funny to find a nest of critters behind the flake at the start of the wide crack. What do they eat up there?
The third pitch was a nice lead, fingers to hands well protected. It definitely helped to regain my confidence in my leading abilities.
The last two pitches were a nice cruise. After rappelling down, and walking back to the car, we decided to have a look at "Little Sheeba" on Drug Dome. At this point a streak ended: It was the first climb in Tuolumne I had to wait for in Tuolumne this year. Ben led the one pitch 10a finger crack, which I TRed afterwards.
After 12 great pitches on the weekend we got back in the car around 4:30 on Monday and headed back to the Bay Area, of course stopping at the Taqueria Algave in Oakdale.
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