Later today will be the last workout before the SJ RnR 1/2 Marathon on Sunday. A 3 mile tempo run... I am getting antsy to get the race over with. I have been training well, had a few good long runs, really good fast runs... I should be well prepared. Still I am nervous... today I feel tired and drained of energy. I didn't sleep well the last few nights, although I still got 7+ hours every night.
I wonder if last weekend's climbing is still taking its toll. Although it shouldn't! I mean, that's why I do all this endurance training, right? To reduce recovery times.
My legs feel funny... I can't quite tell if they feel tired, or if they are screaming: "Let me run!" The last real run was last Friday, since then I just did some miles on the treadmill... That might have been a bad idea as well...to change that in the last week before a race...
Another thing which contributes to my 'antsyness': For my first two 1/2s I just wanted to finish, and I put hardly any training in... This time around I have a goal...and I have put quite some effort and work into the race preperation... Will it work out? Will I be able to achieve the goal? Did I prepare right? Am I on the right way to the second goal of the season, the Las Vegas Marathon?
I guess Sunday will tell!
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Middle Cathedral Rock - East Buttress
Sunday saw an early start, waking up at 5:30, packing up, downing a cup of coffee and a quick breakfast, filling up the water bottles and driving to the Cathedral Rocks pull-out. Racking up took a bit but we left the car at shortly after 7AM. The approach trail brought us to the base of the climb pretty quickly and we started up the first pitch around 8AM. Ben took the first lead which didn't pose any problems. I faced a slight problem in the roof starting of the second pitch, but I managed to figure it out in relatively short time. From here on we swung leads, moving at a pretty good pace. Besides the climbs the day before this was the first climb I really fully enjoyed and was comfortable on at all times. This showed especially on my lead of the 6th pitch, a traversing face pitch. There are two pitons on the pitch, and not too many other places that take protection. The move off the second piton is a 5.8 friction move, where I took a while to figure out how it should be done. But I managed it... I guess on another day I would have wanted to bail...But Sunday it felt really good... On the 8th pitch I got slightly off route, as I traversed to the belay ledge too late. There were plenty of cracks to build an anchor though. It was quite amazing to see a flock of pigeons fly by below me as I belayed Ben up. Another few pitches brought us to the top, which we reached at 1:52. Just about 6 hours after we left the ground. It's a pity that such a great climb ends in an ugly gully! Next time we'll definitely try the 5.10 finger crack variation on the left of the original route.
Another downside of the climb is the rather nasty descent along exposed cliffs and down a nasty gully. At 3:45 we were back at the car, sorting gear, packing up and starting the drive back to the Bay Area. A dinner at Taqueria Algave in Oakdale concluded an amazing weekend of climbing. It really feels as if I got my mojo back. Too bad that I have to go the New Mexico for work again next week, and that I can't make it out to the Valley more often!
Another downside of the climb is the rather nasty descent along exposed cliffs and down a nasty gully. At 3:45 we were back at the car, sorting gear, packing up and starting the drive back to the Bay Area. A dinner at Taqueria Algave in Oakdale concluded an amazing weekend of climbing. It really feels as if I got my mojo back. Too bad that I have to go the New Mexico for work again next week, and that I can't make it out to the Valley more often!
R.I.P.
Unfortunately I have to report the untimely passing of my beloved camera...
Got to start looking for a new one. I guess the economy can use every dollar spent!
Got to start looking for a new one. I guess the economy can use every dollar spent!
Monday, September 29, 2008
Sweeeeet!
Despite the Rock'n'Roll 1/2 marathon coming up next weekend I ditched my long run this past weekend and went back to Yosemite Valley for the first time in almost half a year. And what a trip it was! Ben and I took an early Saturday morning start from the Bay Area and got to the Valley around 9AM. Our plan was to spend Saturday on short routes in the 5.10 range and do something long on Sunday. So it came that the first stop on the way was Highway Star, a 5.10a close to the road, just after the intersection of HW 120 and HW 140. The approach is about 3 minutes, and despite its 4-star rating in Supertopo there was no one around. I took a look at the route and decided that I'd give it a shot on lead...My first attempt to lead a 5.10 ever! The route starts up a flake, continues in a finger lieback section, before a hand traverse leads to a finger traverse to nice hand jams to the anchors. The crux section is the change from the hand traverse to the finger traverse, since the rock is bulging out slightly. I managed to lead to this point, but was completely pumped after placing a BD .75 cam at the beginning of the finger crack. I lowered off at this point. Lowering down I unclipped the rope and Ben lead the climb. After he lowered off, unclipping but leaving the gear in place I gave it another shot. With the pre-placed protection I made it to the top with a few hangs. After Ben TR'ed a 10b variation and lead the 10a route a second time I cleaned the anchor and we moved on to Schultz's Ridge. We had been looking for this crag on a previous trip and didn't manage to find it. This time around it also took us some bushwhacking for the better part of an hour before we finally found it... Although it's about 2 minutes from the road if one starts in at the right spot...
Here Ben lead 'Second Thoughts' (5.10a) which I cleaned. Since an other party (Meg and Laura) were on the other 10a in the area Ben looked at the 10c in between and decided to give it a shot. One short hang in the 10c crux section was all it took to get him to the anchor bolts. I cleaned the route hanging at the 10b section and also in the 10c crux.
After this we swapped routes with Meg and Laura, and I lead 'Warm Up Crack' (5.10a). I managed to do it clean... I guess tightly spaced bolts in the lower part really helped. The climb was also not as pumpy as 'Highway Star' in the morning or 'Peruvian Flake' in the Royal Arches area, which we climbed afterwards. But hey! It's a start.
As mentioned we finished off the day with 'Peruvian Flake' a 5.10a finger crack between Serenity Crack and Royal Arches. Again Ben lead this one and I cleaned. Between 10AM and 6PM we had gotten five different climbs in the 5.10 range in three areas in...not bad. After this days effort we met my parents at the Curry Village pizza deck for beer and pizza...There's nothing better after a day of climbing!
By 9PM we were in our sleeping bags in the North Pine campground with the alarm set to 5:30 in order to get an early start to climb the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock...
Here Ben lead 'Second Thoughts' (5.10a) which I cleaned. Since an other party (Meg and Laura) were on the other 10a in the area Ben looked at the 10c in between and decided to give it a shot. One short hang in the 10c crux section was all it took to get him to the anchor bolts. I cleaned the route hanging at the 10b section and also in the 10c crux.
After this we swapped routes with Meg and Laura, and I lead 'Warm Up Crack' (5.10a). I managed to do it clean... I guess tightly spaced bolts in the lower part really helped. The climb was also not as pumpy as 'Highway Star' in the morning or 'Peruvian Flake' in the Royal Arches area, which we climbed afterwards. But hey! It's a start.
As mentioned we finished off the day with 'Peruvian Flake' a 5.10a finger crack between Serenity Crack and Royal Arches. Again Ben lead this one and I cleaned. Between 10AM and 6PM we had gotten five different climbs in the 5.10 range in three areas in...not bad. After this days effort we met my parents at the Curry Village pizza deck for beer and pizza...There's nothing better after a day of climbing!
By 9PM we were in our sleeping bags in the North Pine campground with the alarm set to 5:30 in order to get an early start to climb the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock...
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Bouldering
Tonight I went bouldering at PG for an hour.
In an earlier post I mentioned that my power endurance is not the best at the moment. This was confirmed tonight. I played the "pick a number" game again. You pick a number and add the V-grades until the sum equals the chosen number... I picked 20... Not too bad... I thought. It seems though that the ratings on the bouldering problems in Belmont became harder. I was not able to finish a V3. So I ended up doing 4 V2 and 12 V1 problems. My arms were toast! I hope that repeating this for a few weeks will get me back on track soon.
In an earlier post I mentioned that my power endurance is not the best at the moment. This was confirmed tonight. I played the "pick a number" game again. You pick a number and add the V-grades until the sum equals the chosen number... I picked 20... Not too bad... I thought. It seems though that the ratings on the bouldering problems in Belmont became harder. I was not able to finish a V3. So I ended up doing 4 V2 and 12 V1 problems. My arms were toast! I hope that repeating this for a few weeks will get me back on track soon.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Long run
Ok, now that I caught up on Trip Reports, it is time to update trainings activities...
On Saturday I did a "long run" I think this was actually the first run that deserved that name. I ran 12 miles on the Stevens Creek Trail, through Shoreline Park in Mountain View and the Palo Alto Bayland Reserve.
It felt quite OK, although I had a hard time getting up and getting moving. But after a couple of miles I got into the groove... The time wasn't too bad either 1:42 gives me some hope for the Rock'n Roll Half Marathon in San Jose in a few weeks.
Yesterday I had planned on climbing at the new Planet Granite in San Francisco with a friend, but the person at the front desk claimed that they didn't do guest passes anymore... I am convinced that she just didn't know how to deal with it! Anyway...no climbing yesterday...
The plan for this week is to do some speed-work tomorrow, some yoga and bouldering on Wed. Another run on Thursday, a long run on Friday and go to Yosemite for the weekend.
HA! Just looked at the trainings plan! I am supposed to run 3 miles today...OK gotta go!
On Saturday I did a "long run" I think this was actually the first run that deserved that name. I ran 12 miles on the Stevens Creek Trail, through Shoreline Park in Mountain View and the Palo Alto Bayland Reserve.
It felt quite OK, although I had a hard time getting up and getting moving. But after a couple of miles I got into the groove... The time wasn't too bad either 1:42 gives me some hope for the Rock'n Roll Half Marathon in San Jose in a few weeks.
Yesterday I had planned on climbing at the new Planet Granite in San Francisco with a friend, but the person at the front desk claimed that they didn't do guest passes anymore... I am convinced that she just didn't know how to deal with it! Anyway...no climbing yesterday...
The plan for this week is to do some speed-work tomorrow, some yoga and bouldering on Wed. Another run on Thursday, a long run on Friday and go to Yosemite for the weekend.
HA! Just looked at the trainings plan! I am supposed to run 3 miles today...OK gotta go!
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Traveller's Buttress
Since I am catching up on Trip Reports here's the missing one form two weeks ago: Traveller's Buttress at Lover's Leap.
Friday night Ben and I couldn't decide what to do on Sunday. Either go to Stinson Beach for some bouldering, or go to Lover's Leap and climb some multi-pitch trad. Saturday night we decided on Lover's. So I pulled up in front of Ben's place at 6AM Sunday morning to start a pleasant drive up to Tahoe. There was hardly any traffic at all. We got there shortly after 9AM. The plan was to climb Surrealistic Pillar followed by Traveller's Buttress. Of course the only other party at the Leap had chosen Surrealistic Pillar too... Only they had gotten there 2 minutes before us. Instead of waiting for them we started on the Groove, where Ben lead the first pitch and I the second one.
From the top we went over to the base of Traveller's... The first pitch starts out with a little 'bouldery' problem, but is not too bad in the middle section. There's a part close to the top though, which features a deep, flaring crack...One can get decent handjams in, but they are way in the back of the crack. Following that section I tried to climb around the flare on the face and took a fall. Using the crack is definitely the way to go!
The second pitch is the tough part (at least physically). It features a 20 foot section of nasty off-width. I tried to lead that part, but had no chance to get actually into the crack, so I lowered off after placing some pieces of pro. Ben tried his luck and was more successful. He placed some pro pretty high, thrutched his way up a little further then moved out of the crack and used the finger crack, which is parallel to the OW on the left hand side. For me even following was HARD!
After reaching the anchors I set out to lead the third pitch. The start was pretty nice, although the strong wind was pretty nerve wrecking. That was even worse as soon as I reached the arrete, which I had to cross. If you look up 'exposure' in the dictionary you'll find a photo of that section. In combination with the wind I completly freaked and froze...Again I lowered off :-( By this time I was pretty unhappy with my leading skills, which are apparently non-exsitent...
Anyway, Ben finished pitch 3 as well, before I lead the final (easy) pitch to the summit. Both of us were at the top at 4:15PM. It took us another hour to get back to the car. Even the drive back was not bad compared to other weekend trips...I guess the gas prices show some effect on weekend trips.
I was back in Mountain View at 9PM.
Traveller's Buttress is definitely a Classic! It's a beautiful climb, with lot's of variety. Despite the painful off-width section both of us enjoyed the route. (We'd only find out about the bruises on our right shoulders a day later ;-))
Friday night Ben and I couldn't decide what to do on Sunday. Either go to Stinson Beach for some bouldering, or go to Lover's Leap and climb some multi-pitch trad. Saturday night we decided on Lover's. So I pulled up in front of Ben's place at 6AM Sunday morning to start a pleasant drive up to Tahoe. There was hardly any traffic at all. We got there shortly after 9AM. The plan was to climb Surrealistic Pillar followed by Traveller's Buttress. Of course the only other party at the Leap had chosen Surrealistic Pillar too... Only they had gotten there 2 minutes before us. Instead of waiting for them we started on the Groove, where Ben lead the first pitch and I the second one.
From the top we went over to the base of Traveller's... The first pitch starts out with a little 'bouldery' problem, but is not too bad in the middle section. There's a part close to the top though, which features a deep, flaring crack...One can get decent handjams in, but they are way in the back of the crack. Following that section I tried to climb around the flare on the face and took a fall. Using the crack is definitely the way to go!
The second pitch is the tough part (at least physically). It features a 20 foot section of nasty off-width. I tried to lead that part, but had no chance to get actually into the crack, so I lowered off after placing some pieces of pro. Ben tried his luck and was more successful. He placed some pro pretty high, thrutched his way up a little further then moved out of the crack and used the finger crack, which is parallel to the OW on the left hand side. For me even following was HARD!
After reaching the anchors I set out to lead the third pitch. The start was pretty nice, although the strong wind was pretty nerve wrecking. That was even worse as soon as I reached the arrete, which I had to cross. If you look up 'exposure' in the dictionary you'll find a photo of that section. In combination with the wind I completly freaked and froze...Again I lowered off :-( By this time I was pretty unhappy with my leading skills, which are apparently non-exsitent...
Anyway, Ben finished pitch 3 as well, before I lead the final (easy) pitch to the summit. Both of us were at the top at 4:15PM. It took us another hour to get back to the car. Even the drive back was not bad compared to other weekend trips...I guess the gas prices show some effect on weekend trips.
I was back in Mountain View at 9PM.
Traveller's Buttress is definitely a Classic! It's a beautiful climb, with lot's of variety. Despite the painful off-width section both of us enjoyed the route. (We'd only find out about the bruises on our right shoulders a day later ;-))
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